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Springs arrived :)
Really learned something today... adjustments to the suspension aren't really noticeable until you take the car to the limit... I had my Koni yellow set at 1.5 turns from soft... my car was OK on the track but then I decided to try 2 turns from soft... harder... car became a little harder to handle, even under breaking... so I then went to 1 turn from soft and the whole suspension came alive... It was better under cornering, braking and especially predictable in a power slide... way more fun to drive... Next track day I will play with tire pressure and might even bring a temp gauge... Best lap of the day was 1:36.45 , clock wise Red zone is over 1g... maximum 1.2g
TO DO LIST Fix speedometer and replace gauge cluster to kmph Check engine compression fix turning signal Remove Alarm system completely ? Get 6”  2.5” 300lb front / 7” 2.5” 350lb rear springs from Ground Control Re align car with new springs, 1/2” lower and more front Camber Improve exhaust ( stainless steel custom ) — weight reduction Replace side and rear windows with Lexan  — weight reduction Possibly remove power windows with a strap up / down system — weight reduction Next three items done at same time-ish ( Talk to shop before doing anything to engine ) 1) Larger pulley to increase compression 2) New CPU 3) Re Map engine  Replace all hoses re paint engine covers remove the rest of engine bay insulation 
apparently this was the problem with my broken speedometer... connects the speedometer cable to the plastic gear at the transmission end... $14... I picked up the part from Ricks Japanese and didn't schedule an appointment... he never apologized for miss diagnosing the car ... what a dick... so now I'm going to try this guy called Ray who lives in Van Nuys... Recommended by C&A Auto Service who was recommended by this asian guy at TQ :)
So seems like my speedometer troubles were not related to the gauge cluster but a $14 gear that connects the speedometer cable to the transmission... This after I ordered a gauge cluster from Malaysia and then returned it to the guy claiming that its broken... I then ordered another one from Canada... Don didn't seem apologetic at all, WTF ? I specifically remember asking him if he connected the speedometer to the gauge with a drill and he said he tested it and its broken... Rick the owner told me himself that it was broken at the back of the speedometer gauge... ???? I've decided to no longer go there... They are obviously not only incompitent but also lie... sad because I was so hopeful I found a good mechanic...  They didn't even thank me for the box of donuts I brought them... I had to ask Don if he liked the donuts and he then said "yes. thanks" Oh well... time to find a new mechanic...  A guy at the RC track recommend this place kinda close to me... https:...
suggested setup in a MR2 forum Camber Front: -2 degrees Camber Rear : -1 1/2 degrees Caster : +6 degrees Toe in front: 1/16 in. ( 1/8 in. out for auto cross) Toe in rear : 1/8 in. ( 1/16 in. out for auto cross) Front:  Caster 5 Camber -2.7 Toe right between 1/8 and 1/16 out Rear: camber -2.5 Toe 1/16 in
Crappy news... Looks like the gauge cluster from Japan is broken... The guy is totally willing too return it and pay for shipping but really feels like it should be working... my mechanic insists it doesn't work... anyways... I found another Kmh cluster in Canada... and ordered a new cluster cover from Neil in Wails... They put my gauge back in the car and I'm picking up later today... I might try new mechanic next time... Don always seems like he super busy and he makes me feel like I'm intruding on his regular work flow... ???
Bought 40 lbs of dry ice and removed the sound deadning ... what a pain in the ass even with the dry ice... removed 14.2 lbs of deadening... Need to let it dry completely and then paint next sunny day... Estimated car weight 2,281 with full tank of gas...
After last alignment my speedometer broke ( AGAIN ) ... replaced the cable but the speedometer  connector on the back of the cluster gauge was also broken... I found one in Japan not realizing that its in Kilometers per hour... Kinda of a nice surprise...
Oil change and filter today... also added a little Archoil AR9100 Friction Modifier Also purchased a new car cover... way better fit... softer , lighter and machine washable...
re sprayed tires yesterday... they really started to wear dark and hard to see... also put test pipe back on...
morning coffee after ride... a little wet this morning but fantastic fog...
First morning ride back from Japan... car runs good... had to add some oil this morning... might be time for a full oil change soon... also would like to respray tires with Dunlop logo...
Went to the Camarillo Autocross today... it was fun... got a little bored at one point but I want to go every month.... http://www.camarilloautocross.com/race_registration.html
Fuel pump replaced.... they also replaced fuel hose that leads into tank... also replaced spark plugs... they didn't look good...  speedo cable broken again, but he said had nothing to do with west end alignment... I need to find another one... also he's going to order a power window switch that is broken on passenger side... two steps forward one step back :) The idle noise that I thought was the fuel pump is still there...
Coil overs, camber plates and new tire-rods front and back replaced... asked for a more agressive setup from West End Alignment... 4 corner balance... weight bellow is with me in the car 150lbs and a full tank of gas about 60lbs
Ball joints all replaced today.... Mass Air flow thing and new fuel filter replaced... car runs great... feels like more horse power... he could not get around to fuel pump... after florida... I have appointment at West End Alignment on Nov 2nd for coil over and camber plate installation as well as upgraded ti rod...
So they replaced the fuel filter but did not change out fuel pump because that was not cause of my problem... That part I was looking for for the past few month which I just purchased for $250 was the wrong part... luckily the same dude in Florida has the Mass air thing i need ( 22250-16090 ) I had the engine cleaned today... waiting for the Mass Air part and hopefully that should take care of my acceleration issue... keep fingers crossed... Also ordered a few items:
I'm having second thoughts about rebuilding the motor... Ive heard from a few people that told me as long as the motor is NOT blowing out smoke your fine... The problem I'm having is the bogging and hesitation under acceleration... THATS the problem I need to solve... phase one will be replacing Fuel filter and fuel pump this Wednesday... I'm having Dan also check for Vacuum leaks, check the fuel injectors, ext... and we will see how she is after that...  I got myself off track with an engine rebuild when that is not the immediate problem...
Both headlights replaced today... Car acceleration , hesitation bogging problem seems to be getting worse... This is what a dude on the forums said: sounds like a dirty fuel tank to me, bet the sock filter on the pump is clogged, and or clogged fuel filter. getting starved of fueeel. if you're driving and it just suddenly goes bwaaaahhh.... and the engine bogs down and u can't even rev it in neutral. Def clogged sock filter. These idle control valves can be taken apart and cleaned aswell. No need to replace it. If it was this part, probably would b happening at all times. Also from another forum concerning engine rebuild: I took the engine out in the driveway with a crane. It's a little tough because of the clearance (the engine sits much higher than normal cars) but it can be done. Saved me a ton of money that way, but that was my main concern at the time. Either way is fine, but I can't speak for any shop specifically that can do the entire rebuild. However, i...
I realize this is an old thread, but I thought I'd shed some light on the issue. The fact of the matter is, Toyota bases chassis codes on 2 things: model revision, and  engine  type. Then there is what is in the VIN, which is used to distinguish between trim levels (turbo/NA/etc). W1 = 1st Gen MR2 W2 = 2nd Gen MR2 W3 = 3rd Gen MR2 A7 = 3rd Gen Supra E8 = 4th Gen Corolla Now of course the first letter added on is easy, it's just the  engine  family code. AW1 = 1st Gen MR2 with A-series engine SW2 = 2nd Gen MR2 with S-series engine ZZW3 = 3rd Gen MR2 with ZZ-series engine MA7 = 3rd Gen Supra with M-series engine GA7 = 3rd Gen Supra with G-series engine JZA7 = 3rd Gen Supra with JZ-series engine AE8 = 4th Gen Corolla with A-series engine Finally, the hard part, the last number, Toyota will have a "base" number that the chassis is, usually this is the model with the lowest engine family revision. Same engine family revisions get the same final chassis number. AW10 = 1st ...
Changed the Transmission fluid and bled the brake lines today... about 103,000 on the speedometer...
My old after ride coffee spot was becoming annoying... only 3 good parking spots... retard and his family would show up running around me jumping up and down making retard noises...lol... the two dog couples who would show up talking to there dogs non stop, and if they weren't talking to there dogs they were talking about there dogs... then the Mexican dude that would wet the sidewalk and then blow dust everywhere, all over the 3 good parking spots... I had enough... Atsuko found me a much better spot... comfortable chairs, good shade... 12 good parking spots to view the car that are much closer then the old place, good coffee and after the first day it was pretty empty at 7AM...
was about to change my Transmission oil when last min I came across this article... Originally everyone said 2.7 quarts... but looks like the SC E51 needs 4.4... still not sure if thats true but I just ordered two more quarts just to be safe...